Sunday, July 22, 2012

Venice, Italy

We are spending the weekend in Venice while Zuzu and Tootie are relaxing back home being pampered.

The island city of Venice, a sort of Key West with canals, was simply amazing; the city far exceeded our expectations. Our first day was spent exploring the streets and canals around our hotel. The next day was tourist day. We left early for St. Mark's Square hoping to get there before the rush of tourists.

It was, however, beginning to fill with tour groups and families. I'm sure this is the one part of the city that doesn't sleep during the night, at least in the summer. The lines for the basilica, the palace, and the campanile tower were already serpentining around. We opted first for the basilica since it appeared to be moving quickly and it was free. Free to view the main part of the church, we learned, but to see the crypt, the altar, and to visit the balcony all cost an additional 3 to 5 euros. So, we made our quick tour and went to the tower.

Having collapsed in the early 1900s, this exact replica is equipped with a rather spacious (for European standards) elevator, and for 8 euros, one can ride to the top for a panoramic view of Venice and the outer islands.

Everywhere you look you see a tower, often leaning slightly to one side, and a church rising above the tightly packed houses and buildings. St. Mark's Square is the largest open area in Venice, able to accommodate thousands within its walls.

Towards the neighborhood of our hotel, the Dorsoduro, rises the Santa Maria della Salute cathedral and stretching out towards the point is the former customs house now contemporary art center, La Dogana.

After getting our bearings from atop the tower, we wandered into the Castello district, reaching another open square where an imposing brick church faced a wide canal. We found the largest church in Venice, the basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo which was consecrated in 1430.

From there, we followed the canal to the north side of the city and headed east towards the arsenal. While parts of the arsenal date back to the early 1100s, the water entrance is flanked by two towers rebuilt in 1686.

Continuing our stroll, we stumbled onto a very large avenue, in fact the only street in Venice and named such as via Garibaldi. This wide street ends where a canal begins and at this "intersection" floats a fruit and vegetable market. We took the opportunity to buy some apricots, peaches, and plums for a mid-afternoon snack in the nearby park.

Walking through this alley of trees, you would never guess you were in Venice. The shaded benches provided a perfect cool spot to rest and enjoy some fresh produce from the floating market.

Upon leaving the park, one is quickly reminded that this is in fact Venice.

How to spend the afternoon? How about a boat ride on a vaporetto from one end to the other. We rode line 1 down the grand canal, enjoying the sights along the way.

Former palaces along the canal. "What are they today?" one must wonder.

Where line 1 ends, line 6 begins and takes you around the other side of the island, past the cruise ships and this large yacht. Researching the name, Carinthia VII, it is the 12th largest yacht in the world and owned by Heidi Horten, the widow of the former German retail giant, Helmut Horten.

Line 6 through the Giudecca Canal to its terminus, il Lido. The long barrier island where the Venetians and tourists go to cool off at one of the many beaches on the Adriatic Sea.

The public beaches were packed, the private beaches less so, but on this weekend afternoon, it seemed most of Venice was at the beach.

A long day of exploring, walking, and riding the vaporetto. Tomorrow we explore Murano.

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